It looks something like a pitcher plant, one of the Asian or South Pacific varieties of carnivorous plants that capture insects with entrapping hairs, sticky substances, and pools of water from which they cannot escape. In this case, however, Aristolochia grandifolia, the vine that produces the largest native flower in Costa Rica, also called the Pelican Flower and Dutchman’s Pipe, attracts and kidnaps the pollinating fly for only twenty-four hours, just long enough for the fly to do its job.

Recently opened Aristolochia g. flower with pollinating fly preparing to enter. Note maturing seed pod which will become twice as large.
A plant that attracts several species of flies, including the common housefly, must produce some unusual aromas. In fact the odor emanating from essential oils, called geraniol, is quite foul, reminiscent of rotten meat. Notice the colors around the entrance to the flower—dark maroon. Attracted when the flower first opens and its vile smell is at its most potent, the fly, carrying pollen from other flowers, enters the dark passage. Then the fly cannot turn around due to the nature of the trichomes, or hairs, pushing it forward to the utricle where the reproductive organs are. The walls of the utricle produce nectar for the fly to eat while trapped. Once the pollen is delivered to the pistils and stigma, stamen are triggered to produce more pollen which falls on the fly, preparing it for a visit to another flower. There must be some signal that pollination has occurred, because after a period of time the trichome along the passage way decompose, and the fly can then climb out and escape.
The success rate is stupendous—I collect over 100 quarter-inch seeds from the mature pod of almost every flower and give many away to visitors. The seeds germinate easily.
At Finca Cántaros, this plant is part of our self-guided tour. Whenever I accompany visitors to show them these unusual flowers and explain that they smell quite terrible, I am amused to see that almost all of them, young and old, want to experience smelling the flower for themselves. “How bad can it be?” one gentleman asked. Wrinkled noses and exclamations of “ewww” or “ickkk”, always follow!
Reference: Wikipedia on Aristolochia grandifolia.
Note: Aristolochia g. is the food plant for some species of swallowtail butterfly larvae.
Caterpillars get such short shrift. Most people living in urban environments probably have never seen a caterpillar, but are familiar with the order Lepidoptera only because they’ve seen a few moths at the back door light, or seen a few butterflies in a local park. But in some U.S. cities they might spend $30 per person to visit a butterfly exhibit at the local natural history museum. The lovely colors and fragility of fluttering winged bodies draw people to them to an intense degree. Children and adults alike are entranced by butterflies and their association with flowers in full bloom.

Opsiphanes quiteria, butterfly larva at Finca Cantaros. Identification of caterpillar by Isidro Chacon.
In the Northeastern United States, where I spent most of my childhood in country or exurban settings, caterpillars are not very charismatic—often dark, hairy and not eye-catching. Many moth and some butterfly larvae there are treated as pests, consuming leaves of garden plants or cherished native trees. However, at mid-life when I moved to Costa Rica, my attitude changed. The abundance of species of Lepidoptera meant many more opportunities to see not only the beautiful and diverse flying adults in gardens and forests (and under black lights in research settings), but also to see a stunning variety of strange and arresting caterpillars.
A memorable day in early 1989, soon after I arrived in Costa Rica, was the day I visited Dr. Dan Janzen and his wife Dr. Winnie Hallwachs, University of Pennsylvania professors of biology and legends in Costa Rica for their conservation work (along with hundreds of others) to establish the Guanacaste World Heritage Site and National Park. Dan and Winnie welcomed me, and my former husband Luis Diego Gómez, to their modest home in Santa Rosa. Before he shook my hand Dan presented me with a boa constrictor to hold and wrap around my arms. Soon after this rite of passage, we went inside for coffee, and they paid no attention to the ants crawling around the sugar bowl, mixing them into their coffee without a word. Of course, I did the same.
There was an odd smell of decay permeating the house. Hanging around the dining area on cords were dozens of little white air-permeable stained cloth bags, some filled with chrysalises (pupae) and others with caterpillars eating leaves. Winnie and Dan were rearing caterpillars, a process taking anywhere from ten to sixty days, and then protecting and checking daily the pupae to see what butterfly or moth would emerge. The unpleasant smell was from molts left over from the changing of the larval instars (the growth process which typically involves five molts), and probably from the decaying frass, the waste of the plant digestion process. This was a labor-intensive job, requiring removing the frass from the bags multiple times daily. Dan and Winnie’s research on Lepidoptera, and many other organisms, is simply prodigious. Later that day, for example, we went out to collect Baird’s Tapir dung so Dan could see what species of seeds it contained.
From a while after that, I was hooked. I raised some larvae myself and took more interest in trying to determine what caterpillar would turn into which butterfly. It wasn’t easy. While in the bags with their host leaves, some fell victim to fungi or viruses. When butterflies actually emerged from their pupae, success was exciting. That was many years ago. Now, I just take photos when I am fortunate enough to spot a bizarre and ornately patterned caterpillar.
In light of disappearing biodiversity, study and dissemination of research about these creatures, often co-evolved with only one or a very small number of plant species, can literally help save tropical forests. People who want to save butterflies (and birds, and jaguars) must also work to save caterpillars and their host plants.
Below are my top ten favorite facts about caterpillars that even David Letterman would love:
My reference guides for the top ten list: The Butterflies of Costa Rica and Their Natural History, Volumes I (1987) pp. 5-8; and II (1997) pp. 9-18, by Philip J. DeVries, Princeton University Press.

Lesser Elaenia (juvenile) at Finca Cantaros with light-colored wing patch formed by edgings of folded middle secondary feathers
The Scientific Committee of the Ornithological Association of Costa Rica (AOCR), responsible for the registry of birds and monitoring the status of rare species, updated this week its official list of Costa Rican birds: 909 species. I am trying to learn to identify the almost 220 species that have, with the help of experienced birders and professional ornithologists keeping track, found their way onto our Finca Cantaros bird list. That seems like substantial diversity for a 7 ha (17 acre) property, but it is only about half the number of species at the Las Cruces Biological Station and Wilson Botanical Garden just 2.5 k down the road—there are over 400 bird species on that list due to its much larger forest area and richly varied habitat.
Trying not to get discouraged about how long it is taking me to recognize even some common LBJs (“Little Brown Jobs” as birders call mostly brown birds whose markings they cannot distinguish) and other less than colorful forest species on my own property, I find my memory is enhanced by taking photos whenever possible. I come home, download the photos, study the books, and occasionally find a good match. All too often however, I can’t identify the bird and must reach out for help. Fortunately, I have plenty of local birding friends who are quite brilliant at identifying birds from imperfect photos.
I needed help today for the Lesser Elaenia, a small 5 ¼ inch member of the Tyrannidae: American or Tyrant Flycatchers. There was a small flock of these birds going from bush to bush eating ripe Miconia fruits. I suspected it was very young from the pale, slightly splotchy tones, and I guessed it was a Bran-colored Flycatcher. After sending him my photos, I was informed by Pepe Castiblanco, a nearby naturalist guide, that indeed it was a baby, but a Lesser Elaenia. “It is very similar to the Yellow Bellied Elaenia, but note pale wing patch. It’s exactly as it appears in the book.”
Caramba! That detail told him everything he needed to know, while I hadn’t even noticed the patch.
The Foto Diarist, challenged as she is, captures on film all the beauty that luck allows her, and takes solace from William Wordsworth:
“Knowing that Nature never did betray the heart that loved her.” *
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Pepe Castiblanco, naturalist guide, can be contacted through the wonderful B&B that he owns with his wife Kathleen Ulenaers in Linda Vista, Coto Brus, halfway between the Wilson Botanical Garden and Finca Cantaros.
*Lines Composed a Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey [1798, l. 122]
Range of Lesser Elaenia: Costa Rica to NW Ecuador, C Bolivia, and SE Brazil from A Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica by F. Gary Stiles and Alexander Skutch. Comstock Publishing Associates, Cornell University Press, Ithaca, New York, 1989.

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